原文: Telofski LS, Morello AP, MacK Correa MC, Stamatas GN (2012) The infant
skin barrier: can we preserve, protect, and enhance the barrier? Dermatol Res
Pract 2012. Art no:198789
网页好读版 http://tinyurl.com/nda9zun
并不是所有的植物油都适合用在皮肤上[1],每一种植物油的组成都不一样,像是不
同油有不同的亚麻油酸(linoleic acid)和油酸(oleic acid)的比例差异。一些植物油,
如橄榄油、大豆油和芥子油(mustard oil),对皮肤的保护功能(skin barrier)是有害的
[2],不饱和的游离脂肪酸(unsaturated free fatty acids)是潜在的渗透促进剂[3],
这可能会增加过敏的机率[4-7]。而且,大多的植物油通常都不稳定且容易氧化降解,尤
其是在高温潮湿的环境下,油的降解易造成细菌孳生且腐败。皮肤上的痤疮丙酸杆菌
(propionibacterium acnes) 和颗粒丙酸杆菌(propionibacterium granulosum)会分泌脂
肪酵素(lipase),将皮脂上的三酸甘油脂催化分解成游离脂肪酸[8],同理,痤疮丙酸杆
菌、颗粒丙酸杆菌或皮肤上的其他细菌可能也会分解擦在皮肤上的植物油而形成游离脂肪
酸。
因此,建议还是使用一些含安定成分(如:矿物油mineral oil)的乳液会比较适合。
矿物油不溶于水,能在皮肤角质层上层形成一半覆蓋(semiocclusive)的保护层[9],不会
导致粉刺[10],有长期的使用安全史[11],且在潮湿温热的环境下也不易腐败。研究显示
[9],矿物油能借由减少经皮水分散失量(TEWL,trans-epidermal water loss)来增加皮
肤保护功能,若角质层含水越高,肤质看起来会越好。
根据作者实验室内部做的实验,乳液(lotion)、水和矿物油擦于皮肤上的比较,未擦
矿物油的皮肤角质层水分蒸发的都非常快,但擦矿物油的展现了很高的保水能力,图一是
矿物油使用在皮肤上的假想模型,说明矿物油如何改善皮肤的保护功能,右图在涂上矿物
油后,形成半覆蓋的保护层,减少皮肤水份的蒸发。
图一 http://imgur.com/z7VhiCv
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