前言:
有感于之前独自辛苦的在国外网站查看各种丹宁术语 (前期真的找得很辛苦啊XD)
今天来分享一下这篇很基础却又很详细的原色牛仔裤介绍文
也方便之后版友自己用关键字去国外网站看更多的资讯
这篇分成几个章节:
1.定义原色裤
2.原色裤优点
3.原色裤的历史
4.制造过程
5.专业术语
6.购物须知
7.如何照顾
大部分的知识可能很多版友都有了
但我觉得比较珍贵的是中英字词的对照
我之前可是花好大的功夫去找寻和理解那些词对应的翻译是什么
好啦 废话不多说了 下面是我弱弱的翻译全文
如果有版友发现我哪里翻错 或认为有更棒的翻法欢迎跟我讲喔
毕竟我也是当作练习在翻的 应该还有更厉害的高手在版上
附上网志版:
http://aa10504.blogspot.tw/2016/02/heddels.html (上)
http://aa10504.blogspot.tw/2016/02/heddels_14.html (下)
本文开始:
The Essential Raw Denim Breakdown – Our 100th Article
原色丹宁的要点剖析－我们的第一百篇文章
SEP 12, 2011 |101 PRIMERS |by Nick Coe
40 Comments
Denim jeans could be the most popular item of clothing on the planet. Chances
are you already own (at least) one pair of them and you’ve probably also
heard about the cultural phenomenon that is Raw Denim.
牛仔裤可以说是地球上最受欢迎的单品了。原色牛仔裤，你可能已经听过这个文化现象，
也可能早已拥有（至少）一条了。
If you only know whispers of the discomfort associated with raw denim, the
supposed high cost, or even about people putting their jeans in the freezer,
then this post is for you. We’re here to explain exactly what raw denim is,
some basic raw denim terminology (selvedge, fades, etc.), and how you to care
for it.
如果你只听过原色牛仔裤不太舒服、很贵、或甚至有人把它们放进冷冻柜的传言，那这篇
文章就是写给你的。我们会在这篇文章解释原色牛仔裤到底是什么、一些原色牛仔裤的专
有名词，还有如何照顾它。
After reading this post, you should understand what the hype is all about and
be able to make an informed raw denim purchase.
在读过这篇文章之后，你就会明白所有的噱头，并可以正确的购买原色牛仔裤。
What Is Raw Denim?
什么是原色丹宁？
http://imgur.com/eLlP258
Selvedge raw denim fabric.
布边原色丹宁布料
Raw denim (aka dry denim) is simply denim fabric that remains unwashed,
untreated, and virtually untouched from when it rolls off the loom to when it
is sold to you. It’s denim in its purest form.
原色丹宁是一种从被纺织机织出来，到卖到你手上的过程中，保持着没被洗过、没被处理
过、也没被改变过，最单纯的丹宁布料。它是丹宁布料最纯净的形式。
Raw denim usually has a crispy and stiff feel and easily leaves traces of its
indigo dye behind when it rubs against another surface–even your hands (this
phenomenon is called crocking). Be careful what you rub up against when
wearing a new pair of raw denim jeans, you might leave a bit of blue behind.
原色丹宁通常有一种又脆又硬的质感，而且当它和其他表面摩擦时容易留下它的indigo色
痕迹，连你的手也不例外（这种现象又称摩擦脱色）。当你穿着新的原色牛仔裤时小心你
摩擦到的东西，你可能会在离开的时候留下一抹蓝。
The Benefits of Raw Denim
原色丹宁的优点
So why go through all this hassle just for a new pair of jeans? One of the
biggest benefits of raw denim, and the indigo loss, is that they develop and
age based on what you do in them and to them. Every mile you walk, every
scrape on the concrete, every item you keep regularly in your pocket leaves
its mark. The dark indigo dye slowly begins to chip away revealing the light
electric blue and eventually the white cotton core of the denim yarns the
more you wear them. What’s left is a wholly unique garment that was formed
and faded to you and you alone.
所以为什么要为了仅仅一件新牛仔裤搞的这么麻烦呢？因为原色丹宁和indigo染剂脱色其
中一个最大的优点，就是这个掉色的特性，它会随着你穿着它时做的事，和你对它做的一
举一动，产生改变和旧化。每一哩路、每一道刮痕、每一个放在口袋里的日常用品，都会
留下印记。你愈常去穿它们，深色的indigo蓝就会开始慢慢蚕食，转变为明亮的闪电蓝，
最终露出丹宁纱线的白色棉芯。最后留下的就是一件以你为蓝图去色落的独特服装。
Take a look at this pair of Pure Blue Japan jeans below. The pair on the left
is brand new, and the pair on the right have been worn for just over a year.
If you want to see more examples of faded raw denim, check out our Fades
section.
来看一下这件Pure Blue Japan 牛仔裤。左边那件是全新的，而右边那件被穿了仅仅一年
。如果你想看更多原色牛仔裤色落的例子，可以看看我们的色落章节。
http://imgur.com/EjLcpqG
Other benefits of raw denim include:
其他原色丹宁的优点包含：
‧Greater Durability – Since the fabric has not been artificially
stonewashed, lasered, and sandblasted, you get the full life of the fabric
involved, hence why many vintage garments have lasted so long.
‧更强的耐久性－因为布料还没有经过人工石洗、雷射和喷砂，你可以享受这个布料的一
生，这就是为什么很多古著服装可以保存这么久的原因。
‧More Eco and Labor Friendly – It takes an awful lot of water to grow
enough cotton for a pair of jeans, but washing and distressing them takes
even more, an average of 42 liters per jean. By buying raw, none of that
water needs to go to waste. It also doesn’t expose workers to the harmful
chemicals often used to distress and wash denim.
‧对环境和劳工更友善－要灌溉出足够做一条牛仔裤的棉花量，需要花费很多的水，而去
刷色它要花更多水，平均每一件牛仔裤要花42公升的水。买原色牛仔裤，就不需要浪费
这么多的水。而且也不会使工人暴露在加工刷色牛仔裤时使用的有害化学物质里。
‧Less Clutter – Many raw denim fans will wear the same pair of jeans
everyday for months or years at a time. This could very well be your only
pair of pants!
‧减少杂乱－很多原色丹宁的粉丝会每天穿同一件牛仔裤好几个月，甚至好几年。它可能
是你唯一的一条裤子！
‧Greater Value – Although the cost of entry is often high, the greater
durability often leads to many more wears per pair.
‧更有价值－虽然购入的单价常常很高，但更强的耐久度也使得每一条原色牛仔裤可以抵
过更多件其他种裤子。
The History of Raw Denim
原色丹宁的历史
http://imgur.com/cgFxlzT
A pair of Levi’s 501 jeans from the late 1880s.
一条1880年代晚期的Levi’s 501
While the vast majority of denim jeans sold today are distressed and washed
before you buy them, nearly all denim was sold raw and crispy up until the
1970s. Denim was primarily a workwear fabric–hence the term “blue collar”.
Denim was sturdy and tough, but still relatively soft, flexible, and
comfortable once it was broken in.
虽然现在贩卖的主流牛仔裤是水洗牛仔裤，但直到1970年代前几乎所有的丹宁都是以原色
的形式贩卖。丹宁曾经是工人服饰的主要布料，因此有了“蓝领”这个词。丹宁非常的坚
固，但一旦被穿过后又会变得相对柔软、弹性和舒适。
The word denim comes from the original name of the fabric “serge de Nimes”,
serge meaning sturdy fabric and de Nimes meaning of the town of Nimes,
France. There is some contention over whether denim was actually developed in
Nimes, but everyone agrees that there is one event that solidified denim
jeans as we know and love them today.
丹宁这个词是源自于布料最原始的名字“serge de Nimes”， “serge”意思是扎实强壮
的布料，“de Nimes”是一个法国的城镇。虽然丹宁是不是真源自于Nimes这个小镇还有
争议，但所有人都同意一个事实，我们熟悉也喜爱坚固的丹宁牛仔裤。
http://imgur.com/Pg1CIol
Jacob Davis (left) and Levi Strauss (right)
雅各布．戴维斯（左）和李维斯（右）
In the early 1870s, a Latvian immigrant tailor named Jacob Davis was
producing clothing for miners in Reno, Nevada. Davis had developed a new way
to secure the stress points on pants–copper rivets. Miners were thrilled
with the increased durability and Davis tried to capitalize on the discovery
by patenting his invention but had failed several times at the patent office.
在1870年代，一位名叫雅各布．戴维斯的拉脱维亚移民裁缝师在内华达的里诺为矿工生产
衣服。戴维斯研发了一种新的方法去强化裤子的应力集中点－铜铆钉。矿工们因为裤子耐
久度提升而感到开心，戴维斯则尝试利用申请发明专利的方式，去资本化他的事业，但一
直止步在专利办公室而失败。
Davis reached out to his fabric supplier in San Francisco, Levi Strauss, a
Bavarian dry goods merchant, about going into business together. Strauss and
Davis received the patent in 1873 and soon began making the riveted denim
jeans “waist overalls” that would define the how we think of jeans today.
戴维斯联系了他在旧金山的布料供应商李维斯－一个巴伐利亚裁缝工具供应商，讨论是否
一起做这笔生意。李维斯和戴维斯在1873年成功通过专利，并且开始生产铆钉接合的牛仔
裤“齐腰工装裤”，就是这款裤子，定义了我们今日所熟知的牛仔裤。
Denim jeans were about as far away from the fashion world as possible at this
point–it was pure utilitarian function. If anyone cared to look at the brand
or the make of their denim, it was purely to see which one would hold up
better under abuse. This would be denim’s identity through the early
twentieth century.
牛仔裤在此时可能离时尚世界非常的遥远，它是纯功能性的。当时如果有任何人在乎他们
牛仔裤的品牌或是做工，都是在找哪一种牛仔裤比较耐操。这是二十世纪早期对丹宁的定
位。
http://imgur.com/CSn1X11
Western star Tom Mix wearing jeans in “The Untamed” (1920)
西部明星汤姆米克斯在电影“The Untamed” (1920) 穿着牛仔裤
It wasn’t until the 1920s that denim’s reach began to expand beyond
workwear. Denim jeans became the de facto cowboy uniform in revisionist
Hollywood western films and children all over the country wanted a pair so
they could dress up like their on screen idols. At this point, denim was
still largely a costume to most Americans, but it did serve to normalize
denim to the middle class.
一直到1920年代，丹宁穿着才开始扩展到工装之外的领域。丹宁裤开始变成好莱屋西部电
影里牛仔的制服，全国的小孩都想要一条丹宁裤，这样他们才可以打扮得像电影偶像一样
。在此时，丹宁大多是美国的平民服饰，不过这样的风气确实有影响到一些中产阶级。
During WWII, many Americans put on denim for the first time as they went to
work in factories to produce for the US war effort. Once the war ended,
however, many soldiers and workers refused to take their jeans off. This gave
denim a countercultural and anti-social bent, wearing jeans in polite company
in the 1950s was considered transgressive at best and immoral at worst. This
sentiment resonated well with suburban teenagers, who identified with the
anti-authoritarian and denim clad characters in movies like Rebel Without a
Cause and The Wild One.
在二战期间，很多去工厂工作、为美国战事努力生产的美国人第一次穿上牛仔裤。但当战
争结束后，有很多士兵和工人不愿意改变穿牛仔裤的习惯。这给了牛仔裤一个非主流文化
和反社会的概念，穿牛仔裤在1950年代的世俗礼制下，好一点被认为是踰矩，最差会被认
为是不道德的。
http://imgur.com/JMw944o
James Dean wearing Lee Riders in the 1955 film “Rebel Without a Cause”
詹姆斯．狄恩在1955年的电影“Rebel Without a Cause”穿着Lee Riders
The breaking point, however, finally came with the Elvis Presley film
Jailhouse Rock. The ensuing popularity of the King’s hi-gyrating antics was
too much for mainstream Americans to deny, and over the next couple of
decades, denim gradually became accepted as a casual clothing option.
然而转捩点终于随着埃尔维斯．普雷斯利的电影Jailhouse Rock来了。电影里牛仔裤的形
象，受欢迎的程度实在是太高了，以致于主流美国人无法拒绝，在接下来的数十年，丹宁
逐渐被接受，成为休闲穿着的一种选择。
Average Americans, however, weren’t used to the break in process nor the
fades that could take months or years to get perfect. The most popular casual
denim brands in the 1970s and 80s were those that stonewashed and distressed
their jeans before the customers bought them and saved them the effort of
breaking them in. So now everyone could put on a pair of jeans that felt like
pajama pants right after they pulled off the price tag.
然而当时多数的美国人，并不习惯自己穿到破坏，或自己穿出经年累月的完美色落。1970
至80年代最受欢迎的休闲牛仔品牌，都是卖一些已经被石洗、破坏过的牛仔裤，帮客人省
掉一些想穿出破坏的努力。所以每个人都可以像穿睡裤一样轻松的购买并穿上他们的牛仔
裤。
http://imgur.com/HmwMNTW
Brooke Shields wearing broken in denim for her famous 1981 Calvin Klein ad.
波姬．希尔斯在1981年著名的CK广告穿着破坏牛仔裤
During this period, Japanese denim enthusiasts became disillusioned with
American denim manufacturers. They believed that Levi’s, Lee, and the other
brands had lost their way, and a small group of Japanese companies began
reproducing jeans in the same manner as the American brands from the 1940s,
50s, and 60s. They rewove their own selvedge denim, recast buttons and
rivets, and even bought up the old sewing machines that used to make American
workwear so they could produce their own new “vintage” jeans.
在这段时期，日本的丹宁爱好者开始对美国丹宁工厂感到幻灭。他们觉得Levi’s、Lee和
其他品牌已经走偏了道路，于是一小群日本公司开始使用美国牛仔裤公司在1940至1960年
代的生产方法，来生产牛仔裤。他们重新纺织自己的布边丹宁布，重新铸造钮扣和铆钉，
甚至还收购了过去曾经纺织美国工装的旧式缝纫机，这样他们就可以生产属于他们自己的
新“复古”牛仔裤。
http://imgur.com/iv5YZgk
A pair of Japanese made jeans from Studio D’Artisan.
一件日制的Studio D’Artisan牛仔裤
These “reverse-engineered” jeans from brands like Studio D’Artisan, Evisu,
and Denime began to expand beyond Japan in the late 1990s and soon inspired a
new wave of American brands to recreate the jeans of the past with their own
special touches and fabrics.
这些“逆向工程”的牛仔裤，如Studio D’Artisan、 Evisu和 Denime在1990年代开始拓
展到日本之外，很快地就刺激了美国品牌，掀起一波用独特、自创风格和布料，重新制造
老时代牛仔裤的浪潮。
With these new brands like Raleigh, Left Field, and Tellason producing and
selling domestically in the late 2000s, raw denim’s popularity in the United
States grew rapidly. Today, there are dozens and dozens of small
manufacturers making raw denim all over the world, enough to the point where
sites like ours exist to document it all.
一些新的品牌像是Raleigh、 Left Field和 Tellason，开始于2000年代后期在美国国内
生产和贩售，原色丹宁在美国的受欢迎程度快速增长。今日，全世界有无数个小的原色丹
宁制造商，若要标记它们全部的分布点，足够去点出世界人口的分布了。
How Raw Denim is Made
原色丹宁如何制造的
So how does that iconic and international fabric get to the point where it
can be made into pants? We’ll leave out some of the details here, but in a
nutshell, raw denim jeans are produced via these steps:
所以这些具指标性且国际化的布料是如何被制作成裤子的？我们会省略掉一些细节，但简
而言之，原色牛仔裤的制造是经过了以下这些步骤：
Sourcing
取得原料
http://imgur.com/4TnLVHv
Assuming the denim is produced with 100% cotton, the first step is simply
sourcing the cotton plants. Cotton can be sourced from many different
countries, ranging from Australia to Zimbabwe; and there are a variety of
breeds and strains that have different properties like luster, softness, and
durability.
假设丹宁是100%纯棉的，第一个步骤就是从棉花树上获得棉料。棉可以从许多不同的国家
取得，分布的范围从澳洲至津巴布韦都有；而且还有很多不同的品种，不同品种各有不同的
特性，像是光泽、柔软度和耐用度。
How the cotton is harvested varies with location. There are those that pick
the cotton by hand while some employ mechanical techniques. Steps taken
afterward include cotton carding (i.e. cleaning), inspecting, combing,
opening, and blending – essentially making the cotton clean and removing all
impurities and chaff so it’s ready for the next stage.
不同的地区盛产不同品种的棉花。有一些是用手采收，有一些是用机器采收。采收之后的
步骤包含梳理（如清洗）、检查、分离和混纺－实际上就是去除杂质使棉花干净，这样棉
花才能进入下一个阶段。
Spinning
纺织
http://imgur.com/5F43AGJ
Now that the cotton has been sourced, cleaned, and packaged in nice long “
slivers”, it’s time for it to be spun. The individual cotton fibers are
combined and twisted to create the yarns that will eventually be woven to
create the denim fabric.
现在棉花都已经被采收、清洁且整理成漂亮的“银”丝线了，是纺织它的时候了。这些独
立的棉纤维会被结合、揉拧成纱线，最后会被编织成丹宁布料。
There are several types of spinning, including open-end, ring, and double
ring spun (aka “ring-ring”). Though there are many more details included
here, note that ring and double-ring spun denim is more desirable – since it
is thicker, leads to stronger fade contrasts (it doesn’t absorb indigo dye
as well as open-end spun denim), and has greater slubbiness (uneven threads).
纺纱方法有很多种，包含空气纺、环锭纺和双环锭纺。虽然在这里有许多的学问，但我们
只要知道环锭纺和双环碇纺的丹宁布料是比较诱人的就好－因为它比较厚，可以产生比较
强的色落对比（和空气纺丹宁一样不吸收indigo染剂），而且色落会有更棒的竹节感（因
为不平坦的线程）
Warping & Dyeing
整经和染色
http://imgur.com/j7HLX99
The cotton moves on to the next stage, “warping”. Woven fabric consists of
warp yarns (length-wise, indigo dyed) and weft yarns (cross-wise, left
un-dyed and thus labelled “filling yarn”).
这些棉料接着进行下一个阶段，“整经”。编织布料包含了经纱（纵向，染成indigo色）
和纬纱（横向，保持未染色，又称“填充纱”）
Warp yarns are prepared by selecting the longer yarn from the ring-spun yarn
and dyeing. There are three main methods of indigo dyeing – loop dyeing,
slasher dyeing, and rope dyeing. We’ll explore those more in depth in the
future, but know that rope dyeing is considered superior as it is more
laborious, specialized, and results in better fades (due to only the yarn
surfaces being dyed).
挑选好环锭纺纱并染色后，经纱就完成了。纱的indigo染色方法主要有三种－循环染、经
轴染和绳染。我们未来会在这块探讨更深，但现在只要先知道绳染被认为是比较优良的就
好，因为它更费力、特别，且色落的结果更佳（因为只有经纱的表面会被染色）
http://imgur.com/J5XwOPK
In general, the indigo-dyed warp yarns are interlaced with the natural
colored, un-dyed weft yarns, and there are two types of looms – shuttle
looms (remember when we mentioned those above?) and shuttle-less (aka air-jet
or projectile) looms. While the former produces less than the latter, they
are more rare, result in finished edges (hence, “self-edge”), and typically
more coveted (though this is of course subjective).
通常来说，被染成indigo颜色的经纱会和颜色自然、没经过染色的纬纱交错编织在一起，
编织的织布机有两种类型－梭织机（还记得我们以前提过吗？）和无梭织机（又名喷气式
织机和片梭织机）。前者的产出比后者少，他们更稀有，会在结束时收边（因此有了“会
自己收的边缘”这个单字），且一般来说更让人垂延三尺（这当然是看个人主观）。
There are also a variety of weaving variations, including right-hand twill,
broken twill, and left-hand twill; and the end-result is a sheet of denim
fabric.
另外编织的变化也有很多种，包含右斜纹、破斜纹和左斜纹；而最后的成果，就是一片丹
宁布料。
Finishing
完成
The denim sheets are then rolled into drums and shipped off to the brand that
’s going to make it into jeans. Some denim brands complete their sewing and
stitching via larger facilities, while others favor one-man operations (such
as Ande Whall and Roy).
接着丹宁布会被滚成一綑并运送至品牌商，然后做成牛仔裤。有一些丹宁品牌会外包给大
工厂去完成这些针线活，另一些则喜欢自己完成这项工作。
That’s it! Not once during the finishing process is the denim distressed or
washed in any way. It is left in its most pure and rawest state, and will
only deteriorate with the wearer’s personal use.
就是这样！在完成的过程中没有任何破坏或是洗色。它保持着最纯粹、最生涩的状态，它
只会随着穿着使用者的个人习惯产生变化。
Check out the video below for a more multimedia-rich, albeit rough,
understanding of the denim manufacturing process.
来看看下面这支影片，虽然内容粗浅，但比起文字多了声音及影像可以了解丹宁的制造过
程。
Raw Denim Terms to Know
了解原色丹宁用语
When you first hear a denimhead talking about raw denim it can sound like a
foreign language (slubbiness, nep, 3×1 twill, etc.). You can get to those
later, but there are a few terms that will help you understand enough to make
your first informed purchase.
当你第一次听到一个丹宁狂谈到原色丹宁，可能就像听到外国语言一样（竹节感、棉絮感
、三上一下斜纹之类的）。你可以慢一点再了解那些，但现在这里有几个词你要了解，这
些词足够帮助你完成你的第一次内行购物。
Selvedge
布边
http://imgur.com/GdW7IlE
The selvedge outseam on a pair of Japan Blue Jeans.
一件Japan Blue Jeans牛仔裤的外接合处布边
The most common word that you’ve heard surrounding raw denim is probably
Selvedge–this refers to those little colored lines that often run along the
outseam of a pair of jeans. Simply put, selvedge denim has had the edge of
the fabric “self-edged” by a shuttle loom as it was woven to keep it from
unraveling. Just because it’s selvedge though doesn’t mean it’s raw or
even that it’s denim — almost any fabric can be woven with a selvedge.
你最常听到关于原色丹宁的词应该是布边－这是指那些小小的、色彩缤纷，经常沿着牛仔
裤的外缘接合处延伸的线。简单来说，用梭织机织出来的布边丹宁会在布料的边缘“自己
收边”，去防止布料瓦解。
Selvedge textiles for the most part faded away in the 1950’s when denim
demand skyrocketed and manufacturers like Levi’s and Lee switched to the
far-cheaper and faster projectile looms, but there has been a strong
resurgence amongst raw denim fans in the past few years. A selvedge line doesn
’t necessarily equate to better denim, but the mills producing the most
interesting and highest quality fabrics are usually producing them on
selvedge shuttle looms.
大部分的布边纺织品在1950年代随着丹宁需求的快速暴涨，和大型公司如Levi’s和Lee更
换更便宜、更快速的片织机之后消失了，但在过去短短几年，又在原色丹宁粉丝之间强势
回归了。虽然有布边并不一定就等于更好的牛仔裤，但工厂在生产最有意思、最高品质的
布料时，往往是使用布边梭织机来生产。
Sanforization
防缩
http://imgur.com/P11b1TP
Unsanforized shrink to fit denim before washing (left) and after (right).
无预缩，缩水至合身丹宁，还没洗之前（左）和洗之后（右）
Another term you might have encountered is Sanforization. Almost every
fabric, including denim) will shrink a certain amount the first time it gets
wet. Most denim on the market (raw and otherwise) is sanforized, which is a
steaming and heating process that pre-shrinks the fabric before it is cut and
sewn into jeans.
另一个你可能会遇到的词是防缩。几乎所有的布料（包含丹宁）都会在第一次浸湿的时候
缩水一点点。大多数的市售丹宁（原色或其他）都是防缩的，是一种透过蒸汽和加热，让
面料在剪裁拼凑成牛仔裤之前先预缩的程序。
Unsanforized denim (often called “Shrink-to-Fit”) will shrink about 5-10%
the first time it is washed. You have to be much more careful when sizing
unsanforized denim and factor that it may shrink up to two inches in the
waist.
无预缩丹宁（常常称“缩至合身”）在第一次洗涤的时候会缩大约5-10%。在选择无预缩
丹宁的尺寸时必须更加小心，腰围有可能会缩水两吋。
Weight
磅数
http://imgur.com/kYqcwLm
Another focus of raw denim is the Weight of the fabric. The weight refers to
how much a yard of the fabric weighs in ounces (oz.). Weights can range from
the ultra-light at 5oz. all the way up to the monstrously heavy 32oz. A
heavier fabric will be stiffer, tougher, and require more effort before they
are comfortable. Most raw denim, however, will be somewhere around
12oz.-15oz. This weight can be worn year round and won’t be too much of a
pain to break in.
另外一个原色丹宁的重点就是布料的磅数。磅数是指每一码布料的重量，单位磅（oz）。
磅数范围可以从极轻磅的5盎司至怪物极重磅32盎司。重磅的布料更硬、更强，且要费很
大的功夫才能让它变得比较舒服。大部分的原色丹宁磅数落在12盎司至15盎司之间。这个
区间内的磅数可以全年穿着且不会穿得太痛苦。
Learn all about other denim terminology via our Dictionary.
透过我们的字典了解更多丹宁术语。
Your First Raw Denim Purchase
你的原色丹宁首次购物
Now that you know the appeal of raw denim and some of the basic language
around it, how do you go about buying your first pair?
现在你知道原色丹宁的要点和一些基本术语了，那你要如何去买你的第一条原色牛仔裤呢
？
Measurements
测量尺寸
http://imgur.com/w1hL9iH
Unless you live near a brick and mortar store (find out if you do with our
Store Guide) you’re most likely going to be buying your jeans online. To
make sure you buy jeans with the proper fit, you first need to know your
measurements. There are six key measurements you’ll want to take into
account:
除非你就住在实体店的旁边（用我们的店址导览看看你是否真的住在旁边），你很可能要
利用网络去购买牛仔裤。为了确保你可以买到合适的牛仔裤，你必须先知道你的尺寸。这
里有六个关键尺寸你会想要记起来。
1.Waist – Circumference of the jeans top block
腰围
2.Rise – Length from the top of the inseam to the very top of the fly
裤裆长
3.Thigh – Distance from the top of the inseam across to the outseam
大腿宽
4.Knee – Distance from the inseam to the outseam halfway down the jean
膝盖宽
5.Leg Opening – Distance from the inseam to the outseam at the hem of the jean
裤脚宽
6.Inseam – Length from the bottom of the crotch to the end of the leg
裤管内侧长度
You can find your ideal measurements by taking a measure tape to your best
fitting pair of jeans. Pretty much every raw denim retailer has these numbers
listed on their website, so once you know your measurements, you’ll have the
confidence to buy any jean, anywhere.
你可以利用卷尺去量测你最合身的牛仔裤，去找到最适合你的尺寸。几乎所有的原色丹宁
零售商都有在他们的网站上列出这些数字，所以当你一旦知道你的尺寸，你就可以充满自
信地去买任何地方的牛仔裤了。
Fits
版型
http://imgur.com/Nxe9Ru0
Slim Straight (Left Field Greaser) and Slim Tapered (3sixteen ST-100x)
修身直筒（Left Field Greaser）和修身锥形（3sixteen ST-100x）
Like most everything you wear, fit is especially critical. Straight Leg,
Tapered, Slim Tapered, and Slim Straight are all common fit options; you’ll
have to consider what works for you in terms of comfort and look. It’s not
worth sacrificing your future children to stuff your tree-trunk thighs into a
pair of heavyweight skinny raw denim that feels like Kevlar. Buy what works
for you, and you (and your future generations) will be infinitely happier.
就像多数的单品一样，合身是最要紧的。直筒、锥形、修身锥形和修身直筒全都是很常见
的版型；你必须要考虑，就舒服和好看度而言，哪一种比较适合你。不值得为了把树干般
的大腿塞进一件重磅、窄身，如凯夫拉纤维制的原色牛仔裤里，而牺牲你未来的小孩。买
适合你的，你（和你未来的子孙）就会感到无限的快乐。
Budget
预算
http://imgur.com/t6Nzpmr
Momotaro Gold Label jeans are made from hand woven denim and retail for $2000.
用手工编织丹宁布制造的桃太郎金标牛仔裤，零售价2000美元。
Next, consider your budget. Raw and selvedge denim can range anywhere from
$20 to $2000. The reason for this is the massive number of different fabrics,
details, and manufacturing techniques available on the market.
下一步，考虑你的预算。原色和布边单宁的价钱范围很广，可以从20美元至2000美元。为
什么价差这么大的原因是，在市场上有非常多不同的面料、细节和制造技术可以供你选择
。
Keep in mind that just because a jean is more expensive does not necessarily
mean it will be more durable, many of the manufacturers at the higher price
points are simply offering something you can’t find anywhere else. For
example, Roy Slaper of Roy Denim makes every single pair of jeans himself on
rare vintage sewing machines, Sugar Cane & Co. in Japan uses a specialty
denim that weaves in sugarcane fibers with the cotton for a unique feel and
fade, Naked & Famous even makes a scratch and sniff denim that smells like
raspberries.
切记，不是比较贵的牛仔裤就一定比较耐用，很多高价的牛仔裤是因为制造商提供了一些
你无法在其他地方找到的特色。Roy Denim的每一件牛仔裤都是Roy Slaper自己使用稀有
的复古缝纫机制作的。日本的Sugar Cane & Co. 是使用一种甘蔗纤维做成，且具有独特
质感和色落的丹宁布。Naked & Famous甚至做了一件闻起来像覆盆子的牛仔裤。
If you want to learn more about what separates the different price points of
jeans, have a look at our article The Three Tiers of Raw Denim: Entry, Mid,
and End Level.
如果你想要知道更多不同价位牛仔裤的分别，可以看看我们的原色裤的三个等级：入门、
中阶和最高阶这篇文章。
If you’re just getting into raw denim, however, the best entry level jean we
recommend is theUnbranded 201, it costs $82 and you can read all about why we
picked it here. Also, be sure to have a look around our Scout tool, which
searches through thousands of pairs of jeans to find the ideal match for your
measurements, budget, and needs.
如果你才刚要入门原色牛仔裤，我们会推荐Unbranded 201作为你的最佳的入门级牛仔裤
，价钱是82美元，你可以在这篇文章（放了一个超连结）读到为什么我们要选这件。还有
，可以看看我们的侦查工具网，它可以搜寻上千种的牛仔裤，设定你的尺寸、预算和需求
，让你找到你理想中的牛仔裤。
Caring for Raw Denim
照顾原色丹宁
http://imgur.com/enrIudH
Now that you’ve got your raws, how do you care for them? Fades are such a
central part of raw denim’s lore that they are celebrated unto themselves
with fanatical devotion. The longer you go without the first wash, the
greater the fades can theoretically be. However, the oft-repeated adage of
wearing your raw denim for at least six months without washing can be a
little overkill.
现在你已经买到你的原色丹宁了，你该如何照料它们呢？色落是原色丹宁神话的核心，能
够不下水穿越长的时间，理论上就能得到越漂亮的色落。然而，经常重复的穿你的原色丹
宁长达六个月以上没洗，味道可能会有一点点太杀了。
Some people put their jeans in the freezer to “kill” the funky odor-causing
bacteria, but it’s not conclusive if that truly works. What we say is just
wash your jeans when you feel like it. While no washes might make for more
extreme fades, it also builds up dirt and grime in the fabric which only
leads to more holes and blowouts. A safe balance is to wash your pair every
month or two with an all-natural soap like Dr. Bronner’s or a detergent for
dark colors like Woolite, but that’s by no means a hard-and-fast rule.
有些人把他们的牛仔裤放进冷冻库去“杀死”产生霉臭味的细菌，但并没有结论说这样真
的有效。我们的建议是，当你想洗的时候就去洗你的牛仔裤吧。虽然不洗可能可以创造出
更极致的色落，但也同时累积了会使牛仔裤破更多洞的泥土和灰尘。一个比较保险的折衷
办法是，每一到两个月就用Dr. Bronner’s纯天然香皂或专门洗深色的Woolite洗涤剂来
清洗，但这不是一个铁则就是了。
The biggest takeaway from raw denim is that these pants grow to reflect who
you are and what you do in them. So live your life, treat them like hell, and
wash them when you think they need it. When you’re ready to wash, have a
look at our complete washing guide to how to do it right.
原色丹宁最大的重点就是，这些裤子反映了你是谁、你做了什么。所以活出自己，对待它
们不用客气，想洗它们的时候就洗。当你准备要洗它们的时候，看一下我们的完全清洗指
引，就会知道怎么洗才是对的。
The reason people are so crazy about raw jeans is because you essentially
make a pair your own. As many denimheads say, “it’s a canvas that paints
itself.” We hope that we’ve cleared up some of the mystery and myths
surrounding raw denim so you can get to work on painting that first
masterpiece.
人们会对原色丹宁感到疯狂的原因就是，你真的亲自设计了一条牛仔裤。就像许多丹宁迷
说的“这是一张会自己彩绘的油画”。希望我们这篇文章有破除掉一些关于原色丹宁的迷
思，现在你们可以开始着手彩绘出你们的第一件创世巨作了。
最后附上原文的连结:
http://goo.gl/gLIJE3