LIZ WARREN
September 28, 2021 2:15pm
https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-innovations/indigo-dye-process-universit
y-of-georgia-water-chemicals-denim-303581/
牛仔布行业转型成更永续性的行业，技师正在研发更安全的染料方式。乔治亚大学最近发现
一种可减少有害物质且促进更有效率的染料方法。
As the denim industry shifts to become more sustainable, technicians are maki
ng strides in developing safer dyeing solutions. One of the latest innovations c
omes from researchers at the University of Georgia, who recently discovered a pr
ocess for dyeing denim that rids it of harmful chemicals while simultaneously
boosting efficiency.
这个研究是纺织品、室内设计、商品博士候选人Smriti Rai的研究，被刊登在绿色化学期刊
The research was published in the Green Chemistry Journal, and is a part of the
Ph.D. study of Smriti Rai, a doctoral candidate in the university’s department
of textiles, merchandising and interiors.
这种传统的牛仔布染料改良方法借由减少靛蓝（印度蓝染）的有毒物质使用，用奈米纤维木
浆混合后的物质附着在纤维表面，黏着靛蓝牛仔布。这种技术可使用大量衣物让他们减少不
必要的用水。
Though conventional denim dyeing methods involve reducing indigo with toxic ch
emicals prior to dyeing, the new process completely eliminates the use of harmfu
l chemicals by mixing it with nanocellulose fibrils—wood pulp—and depositing
it on the surface of the textile. It essentially “glues” the color in place, m
aking multiple coats and excessive water usage unnecessary.
这个研究显示新染料方式浸泡一次可保存90％以上的靛蓝布色泽，传统染料方式则要浸泡8
次才能保存70％－80％靛蓝布色泽，蓝色的窗帘是由靛蓝布用量而定。
The study showed that just one coat of the indigo secures over 90 percent of the
color, while conventional methods require up to eight dips in dye solution to
secure between 70 to 80 percent. Shades of blue are determined by the amount of
indigo particles used.
根据共同研究者Sergiy Minko，染料的900亿价值，原本不重要的永续性，借由这种技术对
永续性和环境有很大改善
According to the study’s corresponding author Sergiy Minko, the industry’s $90
billion valuation means even seemingly minor strides in sustainability can tran
slate to big environmental improvements.
Minko说：牛仔布和牛仔裤行业是很大市场，就算小小改良在这行业也能对这行业很大冲击
。人们开始追求环境友善的产品，并且随着法规变严，纺织业也会跟着慢慢改良。
“Denim and jeans manufacturing are a big market, so even small changes in the i
ndustry could have huge impacts,” Minko said. “There are populations that are
looking for products that are made in environmentally friendly ways. And as regu
lations become tougher, the industry will have to adapt.”
靛蓝布给牛仔布一个蓝色代表象征，因为靛蓝带来巨大的物染，生物科技学家发现纺织业带
来140万吨二氧化碳排放，并且产生苯、甲醛、氨基纳等对人体和环境的有害物质。
Though indigo gives denim its signature blue hue, it considered to be one of the
industry’s biggest sources of pollution. Biotech startup Huue found that indig
o manufacturing produces more than 1.4 million metric tons of CO2 and utilizes
toxic chemicals like benzene, formaldehyde and sodamide, which can be harmful t
o the environment and people.
事实上，根据“国际水见证”组织，在非洲发现了水污染影响的证据，追求流行让河流变蓝
色，尤其是工厂附近更蓝。
In fact, a report from Water Witness International (WWI), a U.K.-based organiz
ation focused on sustainable water resource management, found evidence of water
pollution in certain African countries that support the global fashion supply ch
ain. River flow was tainted with pH comparable to household bleach and a blue co
loration reflective of nearby production sites.
Rai的研究，也许可以让靛蓝布产业带来绿色未来，其他永续性的染布改良包括使用基因改
造生物制造靛蓝物质，为了靛蓝布的永续发展
Rai’s research, however, is one of several examples of ways the indigo supply c
hain might have a greener future.
Other sustainable dye improvements include using lab-grown bacteria to create an
indigo dye void of chemicals—a concept used by Huue. Recently, the company par
tnered with biotech firm Ginkgo Bioworks, Inc. to scale production of the sustai
nable indigo dye.
各行各业的投资者注目这些类似的发明，在今年比较早的时候，美国靛蓝布供应商Stony Cr
eek Colors投资了900万在基因改造靛蓝布，来减少靛蓝布的有害物质
Similar innovations have caught the eye of investors across various industries.
Earlier this year, Stony Creek Colors, a U.S.-based natural indigo supplier, se
cured a $9 million Series B financing round for its BioPreferred-certified plant
-based indigo that’s free of hazardous chemicals.
印度蓝染＝靛蓝，我喜欢印度蓝染，nothisman是CD中的印度蓝染