这篇文主要节录于International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 2–30
这篇文献做大略上的翻译，我想除了关注各别成分的防晒能力，对于过往这些成分造成
的问题可能要更为重要，毕竟 "先研究不伤身体，再讲究效果" 嘛！
虽然每个成分多少都有过敏病例发生，但相对那些高致敏性的成份，还是比较安全
的，另外也需考虑肌肤的健康度、配方的适当性以及个人体质等等，所以也不需因有几
例的过敏而恐慌，重点还是选择相对安全的成份，若发生问题时，再寻求医师协助。
网页好读版: http://tinyurl.com/o2qu264
以下正文开始....
化学性防晒成分可以根据他们的吸收波长范围大略分为UVA filter和UVB filter，这些
成分大都是带有C=O共轭双键的苯环，他们的吸收范围和能力都因接的官能基不同而不一样
。[1]
由于新推出的防晒成分和科学上的研究结果，所以在过去20年所使用的成份一直在改
变。作者为了了解在德国2013和2014年最常使用的防晒成分，特地从市面上比较了178个
防晒产品，137个保养品(乳液、护手霜、彩妆)和47个具防晒功能的护唇产品。并将这些
成分根据他们的分子结构分为以下8类:
http://imgur.com/Z6L4yEe
二苯甲酰甲烷类 Dibenzoylmethane derivatives
在德国，Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM,Avobenzone)是最常见的UVA
filter，他存在于大部分的化妆品和80%的防晒产品中。BMDBM取代了在1993年停产的高致
敏性的4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethae (I-DBM)，但可惜的是BMDBM本身也有致敏性。
[2,3]
http://imgur.com/m4qeGU0
当BMDBM和ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) 合用时，很容易造成光裂解
(photodegradation)，裂解的产物可能会引起过敏[4]，不过可以借由配方的调整，例如
加入octocrylene (OCR)或封装技术(encapsulation)来降低光裂解的发生。[5-8]
二苯基甲酮类 Benzophenone derivates
Benzophenone-3 (BP-3)和 benzophenone-4 (BP-4)是欧盟认可的防晒成分，具优异
的光稳定性和广谱性，吸收范围涵盖UVA和UVB。[9, 10]因此，他们不但被加在防晒产品
和不同的保养品里，还使用在塑胶和涂料里头来防止光造成的脆化，不过要注意的是，这
需要2个成份合用才有防护UVA的效果。另外，有研究指出，BP-3会进入人皮肤，这是非常
重要的发现，因为BP-3会影响我们的内分泌，在尿液和母乳中也都曾发现它的存在
[11-13]。此外，BP-3和BP-4也有过敏案例发生[14-17]，所以在德国已经不太用这2个成
份了。
对氨基苯甲酸类 p-Aminobenzoate derivates
4-aminobenzonic acid (PABA)是 UVB filter，是最早商业化和受欢迎的防晒成分
[18]，但由于他的光敏性[19,20]，在2008年时已被欧盟禁用。另一衍生物 ethylhexyl
p-aminobenzonic acid (OD-PABA) 也慢慢被其他成分取代了。
水杨酸类 Salicylate derivates
此类代表性成分是 ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS)和 homosalate，是UVB filter。
水杨酸类通常都是弱 UVB吸收剂，主要是加在产品里头帮助其他的UVB filter。由于他们
不溶于水，所以有非常好的防水效果。他们通常没什么光敏性和致敏性[21,22]，也不会
影响我们的内分泌[23, 24]，EHS只有一点点进入皮肤的能力[25]，加上他的光稳定性，
所以很多产品都会加。
另一衍生物triethanolamine salicylate是水溶性的UV吸收剂，时常加在发用产品里
头。
樟脑类 Camphor derivates
3-benzylidene (3-BC)和 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC)曾经是非常受欢迎
的UVB filter[26]，因为他们有优异的光稳定性。1994年，30%的防晒产品里头都有
4-MBC[27]，即使10年后，在2004到2006年，4-MBC依然是主要的防晒成分[28]。但在过去
7年，由于樟脑类可能会影响人体[29-31]而饱受批评，来自各方团体的压力，例如：
Women in Europe for a Common Future (WECF)和German Friends of the Earth (BUND)
，迫使3-BC和4-MBC几乎在德国全面停用了。
Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid (TDSA, Mexoryl SX)是UVA filter
，由莱雅在1982年所开发的专利成分。1991年欧盟认可为化妆品成分，2006年也得到FDA
认可。TDSA展现出绝佳的防护UVA效果，例如:预防晒黑、减少皮肤水份蒸发和维持肌肤弹
性[32-34]。此外，TDSA有很好的光稳定性且不会进入皮肤[35]。
肉桂酸类 Cinnamate derivates
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC, octinoxate)是非常受欢迎的UV filter，他
通常会和其他UVB filter 共用而获得高SPF值。EHMC应避免和BMDBM合用，因为这会使他
们容易发生光裂解反应，除非借由封装(encapsulation)修饰，才能改善他们的光稳定性
[36,37]。EHMC被发现可能有雌激素活性(estrogenic activities)[38]且会经皮吸收[39]
，所以在德国，使用量减少得非常多，从1994年的65%防晒产品[27]下降到最近的15%，不
过保养品仍然使用非常频繁。
Octocrylene (OCR)是UVB filter，由于他极高的光稳定性 (含帮其他成分光稳定，
尤其是BMDBM这小淘气)，在德国80%的防晒产品中都能见到他。帮BMDBM光稳定的理论是，
当受到光照射时，能量间的转移可以发生在OCR和BMDBM的激发态(三重态)，BMDBM的能量
转移给OCR，使BMDBM没有能量可以放出返回基态(单重态)，所以可以得到稳定的激发态
BMDBM且不产生热[40]。但由于OCR广泛的应用，越来越多的证据显示OCR已经发展成一常
见的光敏性成分[41-44]。
三嗪类 Triazones
最近，UV filter的开发都会参考500分子量理论[45](分子量超过500的分子，越大越
不易进入皮肤)，让防晒成分更有效也更安全。UVB filter ethylhexyl triazone (EHT)
和diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DEBT, isotrizinol, Uvasorb HEB)，还有广谱吸
收的UV filter bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT,
bemotrizinol, Tinosorb S)都因为他们连接多个发色团(chromophoric groups)而使分子
量超过500。这些成分展现出高吸收系数，高效防护和高稳定性的功能[46, 47-49]，所以
出现在很多的防晒产品或保养品当中，尤其是Tinosorb S，他还能改善其他成分在产品里
头的稳定性[47]。最近，tris-biphenyl triazine (Tinosorb A2B)被纳入欧盟化妆品法
规认可的防晒成分清单[50]，这是第一个粒子大小低于100nm被欧盟承认的防晒成分，他
具有易分散和广谱吸收的优点，尤其有效吸收波长在290nm到340nm，横跨UVB和UVA范围，
有别于传统的纯UVB和UVA filter。他也是2005年以来，第一个新加入欧盟清单里头的防
晒成分。
苯并三唑类 Benzotriazoles
依据500分子量理论而开发的UV filter还有广谱性的drometrizole trisiloxane
(DTS, Mexoryl XL)和methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol(MBBT,
Bisoctrizole, Tinosorb M)。因此，他们发生经皮吸收和光过敏反应的可能性都较少
[51,52]。Mexoryl XL是第一个提供UVB和UVA范围保护的光稳定防晒成分，当和Mexoryl
SX合用时，还能发挥1加1大于2的防护加乘效果[53]。Tinosorb M 制成化学性微细粒子
(organic microfine particles)型态，不但结合了物理性和化学性防晒成分的特性，具
有散射、反射和吸收紫外光功能，且能在水中分散，吸收范围更从UVB、UVA-I到UVA-II
，拥有非常宽的广谱性且很稳定[54,55]。
以下是参考资料，可以直接End....
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图来源:International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 2–30
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